I have friends who live on a farm in Paulstown, County Kilkenny, whom I visit fairly regularly. To get there, I fly from East Midlands Airport into Dublin, take the Dublin Express into the city, then the train from Heuston Station to Bagenalstown (about 1h15) before getting a lift for the last ten minutes to the farm. I normally stay with my friends on the farm, though I did stay at the Woodford Dolmen Hotel, near Carlow, when I came over for their wedding. Here are my favourite places I've visited so far and how far from Paulstown by car they are.
1. Eat an Irish spice bag at Ho Ting Asian Cuisine, Carlow Town (20 minutes)
I got a takeaway spice bag here and it was the most delicious one I've had. For anyone who hasn't had one, a spice bag is a popular Irish takeaway dish of crispy chips, shredded chicken, peppers and onions tossed in a salty, fiery Chinese five spice seasoning, traditionally served in a paper bag or box with a side tub of hot curry sauce.
2. Have a Guinness in a traditional, cosy pub at O'Shea's Pub, Borris (15 minutes)
Probably my favourite pub I've visited in Ireland. It's proper cosy, with an open fire in the front bar and a log burner in the back room. It's a traditional pub that has kept its part pub, part grocery shop feel, with grocery hardware still hanging from the ceiling.
3. See beautiful Kilkenny (25 minutes)
The castle and tiny alleyways are beautiful to wander round, especially in the glow of the fairylights along the street. While there, I visited Kyoto Kilkenny does tasty Asian food.
4. See beautiful views at Nine Stones, Mount Leinster (30 minutes)
I parked at the car park on Mount Leinster and it was just a six minute walk uphill to Nine Stones for genuinely beautiful views of the surrounding rolling hills. The perfect place to watch the sun set.
5. Taste a paddle at the Smithwick's Experience, Kilkenny (25 minutes)
A great way to try this Irish red ale style beer. The staff were also really lovely.
6. See beautiful views along the Borris Viaduct (15 minutes)
A very short walk up to and then along the disused railway walk, all across the viaduct. Even without the short walk, just admiring the viaduct from a distance is cool.
7. See Carlow Castle (20 minutes)
I was surprised to see a fully fledged castle so close to town. It's free to enter and much more impressive than I expected. While in Carlow, you can give Caffé 500 a whirl for some tasty pizza or a nice pint in front of a roaring fireplace at Carpe Diem.
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8. Go for a lovely walk by the river at Goresbridge (10 minutes)
I drove into Goresbridge, crossed the narrow stone bridge over the River Barrow and parked up by the riverbank, then took a quick fifteen minute scenic stroll down the flat, grassy towpath to the nearby Ballyellen Lower Lock. Afterwards, I headed for a coffee and cake (and an Irish soda bread) at The Goodly Barrow Café.
9. See rocks laid by giants at the Brownshill Portal Tomb, County Carlow (15 minutes)
Famous for having the largest and heaviest stone capstone in Europe, weighing an estimated 100 to 150 tonnes. It was built in the Early Neolithic period, between 4,900 and 5,500 years ago, by some of Ireland's first farming communities. It's never been excavated, so its exact ceremonial or burial purpose is still a mystery and medieval legend claims the stones were placed there by giants. Pretty cool to see, although it is also, in fairness, some rocks in a field.
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Still on my list
- Smithwick's Brewery Tour, Kilkenny (25 minutes), which I've never quite managed to catch in time, but I'd love to do one day.
- Explorium, National Sport and Science Centre (1 hour 30 minutes), to cycle around in a giant hamster wheel.
- Powerscourt Waterfall and Poulanass Waterfall (1 hour 15 minutes), a couple of pretty waterfalls I still need to get to.
- Beyond the Trees, Avondale (1 hour), which has a giant slide in the woods.
