Natalie Lamb and the travel post: Dublin, Ireland

I've been to Dublin a fair few times now, both for work and for leisure. This blog post is a run down of some of the things I've done and how I thought they were.

Things To Do

1. Kilmainham Gaol

Well worth it. Yes, it's on every poster in Dublin, but there's a reason for that. You do need to book far in advance, but wandering round hearing the stories of everything that happened there gave me a real taste of Irish history. I strongly recommend it!

2. Guinness Storehouse

A really enjoyable visit, even though I came away realising I don't actually like Guinness! What I liked most was how family friendly they've made it, bringing in bits about the marketing and the history rather than just focusing on getting you to drink. Genuinely a great visit.

3. Temple Bar

An absolute must see if you haven't been before, especially at Christmas when it looks beautiful. Just be warned the cost of a Guinness inside is enough to give you a heart attack!

4. Teeling Whiskey Tour

A last minute decision, and I enjoyed it even more than Jameson's. There's less to taste, just one whiskey and one cocktail, but I preferred the whole experience.

5. Ha'penny Bridge

A walk across the River Liffey, which flows directly through the centre of Dublin, over Ha'penny Bridge is a must do. The bridge itself is a historic 1816 cast iron landmark that serves as an iconic symbol of Dublin's heritage. While the image below isn't Ha'penny, they all offer beautiful views!

6. Jameson Distillery

Very prettily decorated for Christmas, with a tour and tasting that were nice, if a little corporate for my liking.

7. George's Street Arcade

Worth a quick visit. It's a Victorian, red brick indoor market and a nice spot for a browse.

8. Smithfield Square Christmas Market

Not my favourite Christmas market I've been to, if I'm honest. It's a lot smaller than the Christmas markets I get back home.

Food and Drink

1. Butlers Chocolate Café

At Dublin airport, this is a must do whenever I'm flying out. Each hot chocolate comes with a little truffle and I can't recommend it enough. It's the type of hot chocolate with actually chunks of chocolate in YUM!

2. The Mongolian Barbeque

A big hit thanks to my partner. You choose a bowl of your favourite meats, sauces and veg and it all gets cooked in front of you on a giant stove, all you can eat. I don't have anything like it at home and it's definitely worth it, just make sure you arrive hungry!

3. Temple Bar

The cost of a Guinness here is enough to give you a heart attack, but it's still worth it for the atmosphere, especially if there's music playing (but only if you can cope with how busy it is!)

4. Be Sweet Café

The most whimsical, magical café I've ever been to. It's expensive but worth it just to eat the cute little chocolate mushrooms.

5. Lidl (!)

I was desperate for some Irish soda bread but hadn't come across any yet. I was saved by Lidl in Dublin City Centre!

6. Swift

Good for a pit stop if you want a Guinness and a toastie for a tenner. I wouldn't go out of my way for it as an international tourist, but if I'm cold and snacky it's well worth a quick trip.

7. Cookieboy

Does tasty cookies, though I found them quite expensive even by Dublin standards!

8. Hawksmoor Dublin

I visited with work colleagues, but I found it expensive and a bit posh. Not really my cup of tea, being honest.

Where I've Stayed

1. Zanzibar Locke - A great location and absolutely beautiful self contained flats. I got the feeling it would be out of my budget if I wasn't travelling for work though!
2. Generator Dublin Hostel - A great location, but more expensive than a normal hostel elsewhere in the world.
3. Premier Inn Dublin City Centre (The Liberties) - Very close to the distillery, but quite a walk from town.
4. Astra Hostel - A capsule hotel, which I really struggled to get entry into.

Still On My List

• The Sea Sauna - Handcrafted wood fired saunas beside Tower Bay Beach in Portrane, North Dublin, with panoramic Irish Sea views. I saw them on the tv show Bad Sisters and had to see if they were real!
• Butlers Chocolate Factory Tour - So I can go beyond just visiting them in the airport!

Natalie Lamb and the travel post: South East Ireland

I have friends who live on a farm in Paulstown, County Kilkenny, whom I visit fairly regularly. To get there, I fly from East Midlands Airport into Dublin, take the Dublin Express into the city, then the train from Heuston Station to Bagenalstown (about 1h15) before getting a lift for the last ten minutes to the farm. I normally stay with my friends on the farm, though I did stay at the Woodford Dolmen Hotel, near Carlow, when I came over for their wedding. Here are my favourite places I've visited so far and how far from Paulstown by car they are.

1. Eat an Irish spice bag at Ho Ting Asian Cuisine, Carlow Town (20 minutes)

I got a takeaway spice bag here and it was the most delicious one I've had. For anyone who hasn't had one, a spice bag is a popular Irish takeaway dish of crispy chips, shredded chicken, peppers and onions tossed in a salty, fiery Chinese five spice seasoning, traditionally served in a paper bag or box with a side tub of hot curry sauce.

2. Have a Guinness in a traditional, cosy pub at O'Shea's Pub, Borris (15 minutes)

Probably my favourite pub I've visited in Ireland. It's proper cosy, with an open fire in the front bar and a log burner in the back room. It's a traditional pub that has kept its part pub, part grocery shop feel, with grocery hardware still hanging from the ceiling.

3. See beautiful Kilkenny (25 minutes)

The castle and tiny alleyways are beautiful to wander round, especially in the glow of the fairylights along the street. While there, I visited Kyoto Kilkenny does tasty Asian food. 

4. See beautiful views at Nine Stones, Mount Leinster (30 minutes)

I parked at the car park on Mount Leinster and it was just a six minute walk uphill to Nine Stones for genuinely beautiful views of the surrounding rolling hills. The perfect place to watch the sun set.

5. Taste a paddle at the Smithwick's Experience, Kilkenny (25 minutes)

A great way to try this Irish red ale style beer. The staff were also really lovely.

6. See beautiful views along the Borris Viaduct (15 minutes)

A very short walk up to and then along the disused railway walk, all across the viaduct. Even without the short walk, just admiring the viaduct from a distance is cool.

7. See Carlow Castle (20 minutes)

I was surprised to see a fully fledged castle so close to town. It's free to enter and much more impressive than I expected. While in Carlow, you can give Caffé 500 a whirl for some tasty pizza or a nice pint in front of a roaring fireplace at Carpe Diem. 

8. Go for a lovely walk by the river at Goresbridge (10 minutes)

I drove into Goresbridge, crossed the narrow stone bridge over the River Barrow and parked up by the riverbank, then took a quick fifteen minute scenic stroll down the flat, grassy towpath to the nearby Ballyellen Lower Lock. Afterwards, I headed for a coffee and cake (and an Irish soda bread) at The Goodly Barrow Café.

9. See rocks laid by giants at the Brownshill Portal Tomb, County Carlow (15 minutes)

Famous for having the largest and heaviest stone capstone in Europe, weighing an estimated 100 to 150 tonnes. It was built in the Early Neolithic period, between 4,900 and 5,500 years ago, by some of Ireland's first farming communities. It's never been excavated, so its exact ceremonial or burial purpose is still a mystery and medieval legend claims the stones were placed there by giants. Pretty cool to see, although it is also, in fairness, some rocks in a field.

Still on my list

• Smithwick's Brewery Tour, Kilkenny (25 minutes), which I've never quite managed to catch in time, but I'd love to do one day.
• Explorium, National Sport and Science Centre (1 hour 30 minutes), to cycle around in a giant hamster wheel.
• Powerscourt Waterfall and Poulanass Waterfall (1 hour 15 minutes), a couple of pretty waterfalls I still need to get to.
• Beyond the Trees, Avondale (1 hour), which has a giant slide in the woods.

Natalie Lamb and the travel post: Gothenburg, Sweden

A whistle stop trip to Sweden's second city and a great value chilled little city break. I had only 38 hours 30 minutes in Gothenburg, flying in London Stansted (STN) to Gothenburg (GOT): 7:35am-10:25am, 1h50 and flying out Gothenburg (GOT) to Stansted (STN): 10:25pm-11:30pm (but with a 2h30 delay!). Here's what I got up to.

Haga

First stop was a mooch around Haga, the pretty touristy old town (head to Haga Nygata 1, Gothenburg, if you want to find it). It's charming, all cobbled streets and bunting, but it's pretty much just one street, so make sure you take your time, browsing all the cafes and shops along the way.

Café Husaren

While in Haga, you pretty much have to go to Café Husaren. there, you can order a giant cinnamon roll, or hagabullen as it's known locally. It was bigger than my head! It cost me £13.56 for a hagabullen and a hot chocolate (believe me, you're going to need something to wash it down with!).

Skansen Kronan

For nice views over the old town, head to Skansen Kronan. It's a steep but short walk up the hill to this 17th century military fortress, but it's worth it. You get breathtaking, unparalleled 360 degree panoramic views of the city's red brick roofs from up there.

Eat Sweadish Meatballs

You can't go to Sweden and not eat meatballs. I went to Bamba in Masthugget and they were delicious, looked amazing and were very affordable too, at £14.64.

Slottsskogen Park

Slottsskogen Park is a free zoo, just a short walk from the city center. It is home to native Swedish animals including lots of deer wandering about, nestled in a pretty wood. A lovely, easy way to relax.

Feskekörka (Fish Church)

Feskekörka, or the Fish Church, is a fish market shaped like a church. Well worth a look even if you're not planning on buying anything.

Stora Saluhallen (The Great Market Hall)

Stora Saluhallen, the Great Market Hall, is another good spot for browsing and picking up food. Where Feskekörka is more fancy and all about the fish, Stora Saluhallen is more laid back and has more variety. Good to pick up a few free samples too!

Kronhuset Courtyard

Kronhuset Courtyard has some pretty shops selling crafts, tucked away from the main streets. A nice quiet stop if you want to grab a coffee, look at some beautiful old buildings and buy some gifts.

A Boat Trip

A nice way to get a quiet moment is to sit on the massive wooden steps of the Stenpiren Travel Hub, watching the big ships and commuter ferries glide past. If you're in the mood for a short and free trip, hop on lines 286 or 287, which fly a green flag showing they're free to ride. It's only seven minutes one way, but it's a short, cheap way to see the city from a different angle.

Oscar Fredrik Church

Oscar Fredrik Church is a beautiful building, my favourite church in the city. It has a prominent green copper roofs and spires, which are completed by a green interior too. This wasn't on my initial list but I spotted the church from Skansen Kronan and had to go for a visit.

Charity Shops

I was very impressed with the charity shops in Gothenbury- one of them was even 4 stores high! I seem to especially see a lot of them in the area near Järntorget.

The Costs

• Flight return: £39.90
• Flygbussarna airport bus: £14.64 return
• Accommodation, STF Vandrarhem Stigbergsliden: £23.44 (though I had this covered by Hotels.com credit, so it was free)
• Food and drink: £34.68
• Gifts: £7.14

Total spend: £96.36.

All told, I had 38 hours 30 minutes in Gothenburg from landing to my actual, delayed departure. Not bad for a city that gave me deer, some beautiful buildings and a cinnamon roll the size of my head!

Natalie Lamb and the travel post: UK Christmas Markets

I've been to quite a few Christmas markets around the UK over the years, so I thought I'd share my thoughts on each.

Bristol

Bristol's market is very small. It's generally known for focusing more on independent traders and local food than sheer size, but if you're expecting rows upon rows of stalls, you'll probably be disappointed.

Sheffield

Sheffield's is also very small and is spread across a few different spots in the city centre rather than being one single market. It has a pleasant atmosphere, but it feels more like several festive pockets than one destination market.

Cardiff

Cardiff's is very small too, and spread out across the city, with one area in the city centre and another near the Megabus stop. There's a decent walk between the two. One thing it does well is showcasing local Welsh makers and independent crafts, which gives it a different feel from many of the larger German-style markets.

Birmingham

Birmingham, in my opinion, is the best Christmas market in the UK. It's giant and sprawling, German themed, though you do get a lot of repeated shops as you make your way round. That's hardly surprising given its reputation. Birmingham's Frankfurt Christmas Market is widely regarded as the largest authentic German Christmas market outside Germany and Austria, with dozens of stalls, live music and traditional German food and drink.

York

York was genuinely beautiful, but I found it very small and very busy. Everything is located close together, so you don't have to walk far, but I queued 30 minutes just to get food. Most people seem to agree that York's biggest strength is the setting rather than the size. The historic streets make it one of the UK's most picturesque Christmas markets, even if the popularity means the crowds can be overwhelming at peak times.

Lincoln

Lincoln is only held on two weekends a year, which means it gets so busy that you often can't get close enough to actually see the stalls. Its limited run has become part of its appeal, but it also concentrates enormous crowds into a very short period, making it one of the busiest festive events in the country.

Nottingham

Nottingham is quite small but has no repeated stalls, and it's home to the UK's only two level ice skating rink, plus an ice bar, which is pretty cool.

Chester

Chester is very small but very nice, and it's central too, so not much walking is required. Like York, the historic surroundings add a lot to the atmosphere, and the market feels cosy even if it doesn't take long to walk around.

London

Christmas by the River

This one is best for photos, largely thanks to the bridge in the background. The food choices were only okay, but because it's spread out along the river, it never felt as busy as some of the other markets on this list. The decorations weren't quite as nice as elsewhere, though there were some lovely sheltered bar domes where you could sit with a drink and actually stay warm. Online, this is often recommended more for the riverside walk and Tower Bridge views than for shopping, which matched my experience.

Covent Garden Christmas Market

Nicely decorated, but I couldn't actually find a Christmas market here. Did I miss it? As far as I could tell, it was just Covent Garden itself, so the shops and stalls are lovely if you haven't been before, but nothing new if you have. Apparently there are seasonal craft stalls alongside the permanent market, but the decorations are very much the main attraction. Most guides talk more about the giant tree, lights and festive displays than the shopping itself, which probably explains why I struggled to find anything that felt like a traditional Christmas market.

Leicester Square Christmas Market

You get counted in and counted out of a specific market area here, which suggests it gets very busy indeed. It was, in fact, the busiest of the five. The decorations were okay, but the prices were extortionate. £9.50 for a cardboard cup of hot chocolate with a splash of alcohol in it. £9.50! It's also quite small.

Trafalgar Square Christmas Market

Nice for photos thanks to the gallery behind it, though this one is very small, with plenty of room between the stalls. The food choices here were fairly poor. Most people seem to visit this one as much for the famous Norwegian Christmas tree and the carol singing as for the market itself.

Southbank Centre Christmas Market

This was the quietest market of the day, but not the most photogenic, mostly because it sits under a bridge and the bridge rather overwhelms the decorations. It made up for that with the best food options by far. There was a bar area with seating, but it was outside, so rather cold. This seems to be one of London's better-regarded festive markets online, particularly for its street food. The independent craft stalls also help it stand out a little from the others.

Natalie Lamb and the travel post: Porto, Portugal

I was fortunate recently to receive a travel bursary to present at a conference in Rio de Janeiro. While I was away from Friday 24 April to Saturday 9 May (15 days), the trip only used 10 days of annual leave thanks to a bank holiday. I flew with TAP Air Portugal, which has one of the best stopover programmes in the world. For free, I was able to edit my flights to include a stopover in Lisbon on the way to Rio and another stopover in Porto on the way back to London. I have already written posts about my Lisbon stopover, travelling around Brazil, and my time in Rio de Janeiro, so this post focuses on our short but very enjoyable stopover in Porto.

Getting to Porto

On 8 May, we flew from Rio de Janeiro (GIG) to Porto (OPO), leaving at 8:40pm and arriving at 10:45am the following morning. The flight took around 10 hours.

One of the great things about this stopover was that we did not need to collect our checked bags at Porto Airport. They were automatically transferred through to our final destination in London, meaning we could head straight into the city with only our hand luggage.

From Porto Airport, we took the E Metro train into the city centre. The journey to Trindade station took around 35 minutes, with trains running approximately every 30 minutes. The ticket cost around €2.20, making it a very easy and affordable way to reach the city.

Things We Did in Porto

Chapel of Souls (Capela das Almas)

Our first stop was the Chapel of Souls, one of Porto’s most recognisable churches thanks to its beautiful blue and white azulejo tiles. The outside is completely covered in these traditional Portuguese tiles, making it a perfect first glimpse of Porto’s famous architecture.

Mercado do Bolhão

Next, we headed to Mercado do Bolhão, Porto’s historic food market. This was one of my favourite stops of the day.

We grabbed a cone of cheese and created our own mini port tasting experience while wandering around the stalls. I would definitely recommend visiting the market, as it was reasonably priced and there were so many delicious treats available, from local cheeses and meats to pastries and drinks.

Church of Saint Ildefonso

After exploring the market, we walked to the Church of Saint Ildefonso, another stunning blue-tiled church. Porto is full of these beautiful tiled buildings, and each one feels slightly different despite sharing the same traditional style.

Trying a Francesinha

No visit to Porto would be complete without trying a Francesinha, the city’s famous sandwich. This is a seriously indulgent dish made with layers of different meats, covered in melted cheese, drenched in a rich sauce, and often topped with a fried egg.

We tried one at Inês Diniz in Time Out Market Porto. Unfortunately, I wouldn’t recommend it. The food was expensive, and it took almost an hour for our order to arrive.

Next time, I would like to try Café Santiago instead. It is one of the most famous places for a Francesinha, although there was a very long queue when we visited.

McDonald’s Imperial

Our next stop was a slightly unusual tourist attraction: McDonald’s Imperial. This is often described as one of the most beautiful McDonald’s restaurants in the world, thanks to its historic interior, stained glass, and grand design.

Livraria Lello

We then walked past Livraria Lello, one of Porto’s most famous landmarks and often listed among the world’s most beautiful bookshops. Unfortunately, the queue was far too long, so we decided to leave it for another visit. 

Igreja do Carmo

Our final stop was Igreja do Carmo, another spectacular church decorated with blue and white azulejo tiles. It was the perfect final stop before we sadly had to make our way back to the airport.

What I Want to Do Next Time in Porto

Although we managed to see a lot during our short stopover, there is still plenty I would like to do on a future visit.

• Walk Along the River and Explore Vila Nova de Gaia: I would like to visit the area around Croisière 6 Ponts for the pretty riverside houses and views across the water.
• Cross the iconic Dom Luís I Bridge: Views over Porto from above.
• Visit a Port Wine Cellar: potentially Real Companhia Velha for a more traditional port tour experience or perhaps Kopke for a chocolate and port tasting.
• Livraria Lello: The famous bookshop.
• Church of Saint Francis: The catacombs beneath the Church of Saint Francis.
• Porto Cable Car: To see the city and the river from a different perspective.
• Parque das Águas: I would like to visit Parque das Águas for views across the river. I have also heard there are small bars nearby where you can buy takeaway beers and enjoy the scenery.

Final Thoughts

Porto was the perfect stopover destination. Even with only around 7h in the city, we managed to see beautiful blue-tilled churches, eat local food and had a blast at a food market. I would happily return for a longer visit, as there are still so many things left to discover.